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Plan B (B Banyadores): Wildcard for easygoing

The plan today was clearly defined:

7:15 am - The alarm clock.

7:20 am - We got dressed.

7:30 am - Breakfast.

7:50 am - Meter backpacks in the car and shoot out to Vilassar.

8:15 am - Arrive Vilassar, Pep and Moniquet pick.

9:15 am - 72.4Km, Manlleu arrival, where he hopes Sergi.

10:00 am - 42Km further up Ogassa. Kicked to the walls.

10:30 a.m. to 2:00 pm - Climbing Ogassa.

3:30 pm - Around the Maresme.

As I said, a well developed plan. A clear plan, clear and concise. All controlled. Until the smallest detail. Save time. The damn time, it seems that in these lands is determined to screw us on weekends.

So the reality was somewhat different:

7:15 am - The alarm clock.

7:16 a.m. - look out the window, is very cloudy, not clear to me.

7:17 a.m. - I get up and start brewing.

7:20 am - Bea rose.

7:21 a.m. - Bea looks out the window, is very clear, is not clear.

7:24 a.m. - sending an SMS to PESP: "We palante?."

7:25 a.m. - We dress. No response from Pep.

7:30 am - breakfast. No response from Pep.

7:40 a.m. - brushing teeth. No response from Pep.

7:48 a.m. - With backpacks PESP SMS arrives: "Go to sleep! Weather radar indicates rain in area."

7:48 a.m.-7: 54am - Fuck the weather, perjury in Greek, Hebrew and Aramaic. I get red and I was swells the vein in his temple. Murmurs are heard in the homes of neighbors. I have them terrified.

7:55 a.m. - I relax. It requires a plan B. decided to play the wild card: Banyadores, School for the easygoing Maresme.

7:55 a.m. - Sending SMS to PESP: "No shit!" We're dressed and breakfasted! For a minute, do not get caught in the car. Surely we approach Banyadores in a couple of hours. Will send you? ".

7:57 a.m. - Notice to Alonso, I guess awake, haggard and with the samophlange around his neck. But just in case, do not call and send SMS:" Change of plan. Banyadores in a couple of hours? Send SMS when you rise up. "

8:00 am - PESP SMS arrives:" We'll always Banyadores, but not before 11am. This guy is a sloth.

8:01 a.m. - I go to bed. Bea is already asleep. I plan to sleep for an hour more and then head to Banyadores.

8:02 a.m. - I go into a deep coma.

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10:30 am - I wake up. Miro time. It is much later than I expected. I wanted to be in Banyadores at 10:30 am, at the latest. Fuck my laziness, forsworn in Greek, Hebrew and Aramaic. I get red and I was swells the vein in his temple. Murmurs are heard in the homes of neighbors. I have them terrified.

10:30 '30 "am - I'm dressed, shoes, the backpack and the car key in hand.

10:35 am - Bea rose.

10:36 a.m.-10: 47am - No I know what happens, but of course leave home, do not go out. Bea detect my nervousness, I'm half sandwich of Nutella and that seems to calm down a bit.

10:48 a.m. - Sending SMS to Alonso and Pep: "Bea and I left Banyadores pa classic sector. Hopefully the weather hold. "

10:54 a.m. - Call Alonso. Be noted. Let's go for it.

11:20 am - We pick up Alonso.

11:30 am - We arrived at Vilassar. Begins to rain. The plan B is staggering. I refuse to admit it. suggest "get to the sand track, park and see what happens. If it rains a lot, we become. "Alonso and Bea did not seem very convinced, but not disgust me, entering the plan. Also, I drive and judged more prudent to follow the current.

11:40 am - We arrived at the track sand. It rains very little, but raining, raining. Pep Llama, who says he is dressed and ready to pack but of course with the rain it is best to stay at home. I'm calling, and nothing nice. Reinforcement using reverse psychology, they call it. Pep respond wisely going to come, prefer to stay lying on the couch.

11:41 a.m. - Bea Alonso suggest a walk through the fields, without carrying the rope. Overall, it's raining. Once again I refuse to admit the evidence. "If we go, we came up with rope and tackle, that it stops raining and you can climb." Alonso and Bea did not seem very convinced, but not disgust me, again entering the plan. Moreover, as I that judged roped load more prudent to follow the current.

11:42 a.m. - began to go up the track. Miraculously, the rain begins to stop.

11:48 a.m. - It has stopped raining. Pep call to see if you dare. This time he spoke softly, his voice firm but calm, trying not to flinch. To everyone's surprise, Pep is encouraged. And this time I did not need the insults of reinforcement, this man no one understood.

11:55 a.m. - Alonso and I arrived at trackside. There is only one rope, but just the way I wanted.

12:06 am - Bea calling, asking where we are. Was left behind on the rise and instead of turning right onto the Classic sector, has pulled to the left to the Amazon area. Turns around and comes to the Classic field.

12:10 p.m. - Bea arrived and began to climb ... Finally!

12:20 m - Pep and makes rope comes with Alonso

12:20 p.m.-2: 40pm A great couple of hours climbing in which time has respected.

Bea has done two ways: Twisting (V) of about 25 meters with some baby steps "interesting" to more than 20m high and Normal (IV). I these two and then the final Aresta (V +). Alonso and Pep have begun with Dr. Doom (V +), Concave (V) and then the winding (V). We left for the final Pereira Portugues (V + according to the guide, although I find the V + more Banyadores Chung) and Xarrupa that Vess (6b), a the few that I have encountered in this sector.

I repeat

Pereira, and amount Xarrupa. Low. Upload Pep's Pereira, a "flash" without any problems for him to enjoy the regletillas. Alonso decides to give a touch on top rope, without much conviction, because this route was choked when he tried for the first time in August last year. Start convinced that it will not be able to pass the first movement, but surprisingly (for him) makes it pull on the first try today, apparently without much trouble.

2:41 pm - Pep says: "We've got two minutes of climbing.'s gonna start raining"

2:43 pm - According to Vessa Xarrupa to start, and exactly two minutes after the warning Pep, it starts to rain. We collect and hurried back to the car. And Xarrupa runs again in the inkwell. It's okay, it's good to have projects. Neither I nor perjurer vein swelling or anything.

In short, once again Banyadores, easygoing wildcard school has saved the day.

Pereira Pep in the Portuguese

Pereira Alonso in the Portuguese

And today there are no pictures of Bea or I climb, and precisely why today we decided to go to "team" to look good in photos Fardon. It passes through our smug. But the effort was not in vain, Alonso has taken some pictures on the terrace of his house. You know, to follow the stream and that ...

Beita and witch, sheep equipment (courtesy of antibodies Abcam)

In breu, month

Fell And My Elbow Is Swollen

And today, what do we mean? Return to job

's funny. Sometimes go weeks without anything remarkable to put in the blog, and sometimes I build things to tell. I still have pending the story and the great pictures of the ascent of the corridor to the left of the west face of Taillon, with Sergi. already published a few days ago advancement. But today we will not talk about it:

puñadín

I have a picture of our Easter vacation in Comillas, including some prior to the unfortunate result of combining a plate and a half of rice, beer, three glasses of wine, rum, two cafes, a surf session movidito and gastrointestinal stimulant and a lush meadow and tall grass with the ground littered with nettles. But we're not going to talk about this:

Today we will talk about more recent events, that I have more fresh. And closer places. And, of course, climbing. And is that on Sunday May 1 the rope to kill them, that is, Pep and myself, we come once again to Montserrat continuing the ambitious plan that we have set and that any day that ends with a successful ascent of at least two ways in the day, would be a complete failure and a demonstration of cowardice manifests. There you have it. Montserrat

not need great presentation on this blog. You have seen several photos of the north face of hats and cupcakes . However, this time, we went down his face South

visited

Can Jorba, an area completely new to me, and taking into account the extremely low memory having Pep pathways for this and the walls could be said that this area was completely new drums for him, even though there has already climbed a few times

And the name of the area is due to this lonely farmhouse at the foot of the walls: Can Jorba

Can Jorba The area offers everything in abundance , from climbing walls to itineraries of various lengths of "classic" ... and this "classic" in Montserrat has come to mean: it is best not to fall. With just one approach path that passes by a huge cave ...

... arrive at the foot of Miranda de Can Jorba, the wall you can find chosen paths: Sol Solet, 130, IV + to whet your appetite, and Escabroni Escapullini, 125m V / V + to less noble ends can open gastrointestinal tract ...

Solet

The Sun is highly recommended for those who prove they want, without getting into climbing Montserratina shirts chew. Grade facilitated long-held but with abundant safe, bombproof meetings (most with three of bolts) and rappelling. A trackside what drew lots, following the tradition and Purete brunt. Coin. Heads, which means that touched me the long odd, Pep and peers. Via disfrutona and smoothly, if we ignore the first long had a wet section of the rain on Saturday and, especially, if we forget that damn dam break on the first lap, before reaching the first check that you are a few meters above the ground, catching by surprise Pep, in the blink of an eye, was found hanging from the rope. Luckily he was second. Sure was glad that I touched me the long odds.

The Escabroni Escapullini, despite what is said by some websites and even some guides, it has nothing to do with the Sun Solet. In my opinion there is a way for beginners. The first long, 45m!, IV \u200b\u200b+ is a very solid insurance maintained (parabolts) but, eye, and begin to move away. Since then, a long which would not suffer a slip, but one of the best sections IV + I've climbed so far in Montserrat. In this case, the longer you touch Pep odd and peers at me, so I get the 4 th long Cotado V or V +, according to the guide. The key step is to avoid the ceiling on the right, but notice to boaters passing the ceiling is only the beginning. After that, you have to climb a vertical plate of V degree quite certainly grieve the absence of other more graphic word (and less noble). Three or four nearest safe that in the long lower, to protect it. From below it seems more difficult than it turns out to be. Once put on fatigues, dams are quite positive, but beware, this is V is vertical, you have air 100m below the ass and not give away anything here.

Pep, with white hull, the second meeting of Sol Solet. On the left, with orange helmet, a escaldora at the first meeting of Escabroni Escapullini

the

Arriving at the third meeting of Sol Solet

Both pathways end in the top of the roof, from which three rappels down long, the first of them flew and not suitable for those with vertigo.

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View from the Sun Solet. Can Jorba seen in the foreground.

Pep starting the rappel flown Sol Solet

Vista roof after the first rappel

Entering the second abseil

And below, a video of Pep rappelling the roof after finishing Escabroni Escapullini .. .

In Breu month.