Sunday, April 10, 2011

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string, volleys and muffins

a megapost today under three headings: string, volleys and muffins.


Chapter One: the strings.
On April 2 I went to siblings Batet Villena, in the Valle de Ribes, to do some climbing. So we climb the thing that dogged some to say that is the best rock climbing, limestone that shit . Some in their closure, prefer the granite ...
It was not bad at all, a V + and 6a to view, then a 6a + at the first attempt (I did not write it down in sight because I saw Sergio and Pep before trying and I was very clear where he was the passage crappy). After an attempt on a top rope 6b + in which, again, I could do pull but I got all the moves.

Sergi in "There's no beach, a fairly easy as pie the 6th

Pep in" in Company dels ocells ", 6b +. Sergi, who is strong, he took this path to view. I left as a project, and I think that is within my ability because I got all the moves and did not find any hard or too long.
Another shot of Pep in "in Company dels ocells" 6b +
Well, everything seemed to go pretty well, until I had a disastrous occurrence test "Desembre offer" a 6a + Sergi and warned that it was a bit harsh. A little? Virgin!

Desembre
still optimistic before attempting to offer
Desembre offer, as it turned out, for me, the key step. Right on the first sheet.
And that's where I got to get ... I could not pass in the first plate. Behold my face in frustration, weary pose of boredom and passivity of PESP, and subliminal support Sergi, which adorns my failure with that recognizable sign of support made to the middle finger (indicated by black arrow). Thank you very much to both ... bastards: P
Well, then top rope, got out the damn movement; although it was already so I could not get blown up jerk and had to rest several times hanging on the rope. Another project that remains. Note for a future attempt, although it seems that the usual sequence is to pull to the left, is that I have to go to the opposite side because my somewhat less than impressive height makes me very difficult to sing well ... in order.

Chapter two: the volleys.
third
changed radically. As many of you know, Bea and I are very motivated lately with the paddle. We are catching the point, but eye-based practice a lot. As an example of our training super-structured This video beyond April 3, to tune of Jamiroquai:


Then, yes, we lost 6-1, 9-7 against Sea and Paco ... will require further training: P

Chapter Three: cupcakes.
And we changed the subject ... but be careful, to avoid confusion and everything is clear from the outset, I wish to state that I do not mean these muffins:


So sorry for those who're reading this post on an empty stomach. Now you can stop salivating. I meant
these other Cupcakes:
From left to right: Sailor Hat (1), Lower Magdalena (2), the buttress of the Upper Magdalena (3), the Ullal de la Magdalena Superior (4), Upper Magdalena (5), Phrygian Cap (6) and Sentry (7)

Takes Gerome rubber pads, that if you liked the posts about climbing, there are two cups.
Ah, I know that the photo will sound familiar. With reason. The Phrygian Cap was already up a couple of times, first with Pep , and the second in triple rope Pep and Alonso, with whom on the same day we double Phrygian cap Upper Magdalena. So this Saturday I allowed myself to be persuaded by Pep Montserrat again while surreptitiously planned to convince him to try a triple. Yes, three roads in the day, seize the day. In the end, I can not be, we settle for another easy double track: the Rataplan (although it varies from phone to phone, sometimes Rantanplan as Lucky Luke's dog) and Benson.


Rantanplan Sketch of the road, or Rataplan or
Ratanplán ... or I know.
We played to decide who started the track and I was the lucky one. And I'm serious. I think the best length is just the first. In general, disfrutona Rataplan is a way of muchisísisisimos little difficulty with insurance, especially in the first long (16 sheets at 35 meters!). Ideal for those who want to try a V-Montserrat without risk his skin. Although mark 4 long, we made the long room (III degree) unstrung. Is a ramp 15 meters without much beer.

After
rappel the south face and, without really knowing where we were getting into, I jumped into the Benson:


The key long Benson is the first that this time it was a Pep. Another V-, but with insurance and more widely spaced so that, without being crazy (the key step is well protected), are certainly in the longer distances do not want to fall. The review marks
3 long, but we did it in two long, joining the last two. Basically because I skipped the middle session and then another meeting. Anyway, 60m rope will reach to spare. Even with short strings, because I think we wore the red string is less than 60m after it was cut Pep Sergi and ends.
This means not as much as I liked Rataplan. The first feature is pretty good, but nothing out of the first session, the rest is easy ramps low wall with a pair of vertical rather short. But it is a good way "filler" in case anyone was left wanting more climbing after rising by another route nearby.
course, if I had 100m more ... :)




Pep on the first throughout the Rataplan ... oh, and my left foot

Photo
summit in the Lower Magdalena. Pep more attentive to the call that the views Moniquet. Lest anyone doubt that Pep is a hopeless romantic who is completely devoted to caring for your girl.

In Breu month.

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